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<channel>
	<title>The Basic of Camera Photography</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs</link>
	<description>We snap and we learn, everything about photography!</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 12 Mar 2012 05:35:36 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<language>en</language>
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		<title>Spherical Aberration</title>
		<link>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/2012/03/spherical-aberration/</link>
		<comments>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/2012/03/spherical-aberration/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Mar 2012 05:35:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Snap and Learn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Camera Equipments]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/?p=194</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Although rare in lenses on modern small cameras, spherical aberration can occur in older equipment. Spherical aberration produces a change in focus when the lens aperture is closed down. It can be corrected only by rechecking the focus after the lens has been stopped down to the final, &#8220;taking&#8221; aperture. Find out more about camera [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Although rare in lenses on modern small cameras, spherical aberration can occur in older equipment. Spherical aberration produces a change in focus when the lens aperture is closed down. It can be corrected only by rechecking the focus after the lens has been stopped down to the final, &#8220;taking&#8221; aperture.</p>
<p>Find out more about <a title="camera lenses aberrations" href="http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/camera_lens/lens-aberrations.php">camera lens aberration</a>.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
		<title>What do you need in your camera filter kit</title>
		<link>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/2011/09/what-do-you-need-in-your-camera-filter-kit/</link>
		<comments>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/2011/09/what-do-you-need-in-your-camera-filter-kit/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Sep 2011 06:14:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Snap and Learn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[film photography]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/?p=191</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Below is a recommendation of filter kit that film photographers would like to have. An Entry-Level Kit skylight or UV 81A or Tiffen 812 warming polarizer No. 8 Yellow No. 11 Green step-up/step-down rings to fit filters to all lens sizes appropriate lens hoods for all lenses Intermediate Kit skylight or LTV 81A or Tiffen [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Below is a recommendation of filter kit that film photographers would like to have.</p>
<p><strong>An Entry-Level Kit</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>skylight or UV</li>
<li>81A or Tiffen 812 warming</li>
<li>polarizer</li>
<li>No. 8 Yellow</li>
<li>No. 11 Green</li>
<li>step-up/step-down rings to fit filters to all lens sizes</li>
<li>appropriate lens hoods for all lenses</li>
</ol>
<p><strong>Intermediate Kit</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>skylight or LTV</li>
<li>81A or Tiffen 812 for warming polarizer</li>
<li>N/D .50</li>
<li>CC 30R for fluorescents</li>
<li>No. 8 Yellow</li>
<li>No. 11 Green</li>
<li>No. 25 Red for infrared or dramatic sky</li>
<li>several special-effects filters selected to enhance often photographed subjects</li>
<li>step-up/step-down rings</li>
<li>lens hoods for each lens</li>
</ol>
<p><strong>Advanced Amateur or Professional Kit</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>skylight or UV</li>
<li>CC 30R or FL filter</li>
<li>polarizes</li>
<li>set of light-balancing 80 and 85 series filters</li>
<li>No. 8 Yellow</li>
<li>No. 11 Green</li>
<li>No. 21 Orange</li>
<li>No. 25 Red</li>
<li>No. 47 Blue</li>
<li>No. 58 Green</li>
<li>neutral density filters to 2.0 or a variable N/D filter</li>
<li>numerous special-effects filters, front-lens attachments, and adapters</li>
<li>step-up/step-down rings to fit filters to all lenses</li>
<li>lens hoods for each lens</li>
</ol>
<p>Find out more about <a title="camera flters" href="http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/camera-filters/camera-filters.php">camera filters</a>.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Pushing and Pulling in Film Photography</title>
		<link>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/2011/09/pushing-and-pulling-in-film-photography/</link>
		<comments>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/2011/09/pushing-and-pulling-in-film-photography/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 02 Sep 2011 07:03:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Snap and Learn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[film photography]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/?p=187</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A great advantage of Ektachrome-type films is their ability to be &#8220;pulled&#8221; or &#8220;pushed.&#8221; Pulling film, overexposing and under developing, reduces contrast and decreases color saturation. Pushing film, underexposing and overdeveloping, effectively increases film speed by one, two, three, or four stops. With Ektachrome available in ASA ratings from 64 to 400, effective exposures from [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A great advantage of Ektachrome-type films is their ability to be &#8220;pulled&#8221; or &#8220;pushed.&#8221; Pulling film, overexposing and under developing, reduces contrast and decreases color saturation. Pushing film, underexposing and overdeveloping, effectively increases film speed by one, two, three, or four stops. With Ektachrome available in ASA ratings from 64 to 400, effective exposures from ASA 32 to ASA 6400 are possible.</p>
<p>To compensate in the processing for pulling or pushing E-6 films, you need only alter the time for the first developer and, with some processing kits, the color developer. Film pushed more than one stop, however, exhausts the first developer—discard it after one use.</p>
<p>Find out more about pushing and pulling in <a title="Pushing and pulling in film photography" href="http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/film_photography/push-pull-processing-films-change-iso.php" target="_self">film photography</a>.</p>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Advantages and Disadvantages Polachrome CS</title>
		<link>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/2011/08/advantages-and-disadvantages-polachrome-cs/</link>
		<comments>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/2011/08/advantages-and-disadvantages-polachrome-cs/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Aug 2011 12:54:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Snap and Learn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[film photography]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/?p=184</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Advantages 1. Virtually immediate results 2. Film can be used in any 35mm camera 3. Accurate color rendition 4. Better reciprocity performance than conventional color film 5. Very good overexposure performance Disadvantages 1. Relatively slow—ISO 40 2. Visible grain, especially in shadow areas 3. Off-the-film metering produces incorrect readings 4. Very delicate film surface susceptible [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Advantages</strong></p>
<p>1. Virtually immediate results</p>
<p>2. Film can be used in any 35mm camera</p>
<p>3. Accurate color rendition</p>
<p>4. Better reciprocity performance than conventional color film</p>
<p>5. Very good overexposure performance</p>
<p><strong>Disadvantages</strong></p>
<p>1. Relatively slow—ISO 40</p>
<p>2. Visible grain, especially in shadow areas</p>
<p>3. Off-the-film metering produces incorrect readings</p>
<p>4. Very delicate film surface susceptible to damage</p>
<p>5. High cost per slide</p>
<p>6. Polaroid Autoprocessor must be used to develop slides</p>
<p><a href="http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/film_photography/film_photography.php">film photography</a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Camera Filters</title>
		<link>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/2011/08/camera-filters/</link>
		<comments>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/2011/08/camera-filters/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 10 Aug 2011 02:11:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Snap and Learn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Camera Equipments]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/?p=181</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[All filters employed in color photography alter the color balance of film or the quality of the light. Filters are also used to change tonal relationships in black-and-white images. While most photographers use filters at least occasionally, there remains a debate over their use. Purists argue that one should never place anything between the prime [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>All filters employed in color photography alter the color balance of film or the quality of the light. Filters are also used to change tonal relationships in black-and-white images. While most photographers use filters at least occasionally, there remains a debate over their use. Purists argue that one should never place anything between the prime lens and the subject to be photographed. On the other hand, &#8220;image modifiers&#8221; contend that all is permissible in the name of creativity, even at the risk of an image becoming a cliché. Prudent image-makers fall into the great middle ground between these two extremes. My belief is that one should not try to save mediocre pictures with gimmicks. Gimmicks save nothing! Following this line of reasoning, I suggest the sparing use of filters and that this use should only follow ample forethought. Filters can, however, solve problems, add emphasis, underscore intentional visual statements, and allow for personal interpretation.</p>
<p><a title="Camera filters" href="http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/film_photography/film_photography.php">camera filters</a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Color Transparency Film (Medium Speed ISO100-200)</title>
		<link>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/2011/03/color-transparency-film-medium-speed-iso100-200/</link>
		<comments>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/2011/03/color-transparency-film-medium-speed-iso100-200/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 27 Mar 2011 23:59:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Snap and Learn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[film photography]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/?p=175</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Medium-speed films, in particular ISO 100, are usually very good among different brands. There is an excellent balance of speed, grain quality approaching that of slower films, first-rate color reproduction, moderate contrast, pushability with little if any loss in quality, and varied color interpretations. Other virtues of this group include the ability to absorb elevated [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Medium-speed films, in particular ISO 100, are usually very good among different brands. There is an excellent balance of speed, grain quality approaching that of slower films, first-rate color reproduction, moderate contrast, pushability with little if any loss in quality, and varied color interpretations. Other virtues of this group include the ability to absorb elevated ISOs for more color saturation without any other harmful effects.</p>
<p>Which film is best? Again, it comes down to a matter of personal taste in which the subjective character of each film, such as the appearance of grain (e.g., smooth and creamy with Fuji emulsions or the more aggressive, sharp-edged Kodak structure), becomes the deciding factor.</p>
<p>No matter how much objective numerical data we accumulate, it is your eye and mind that should remain the ultimate judge. This is not to say objective data is not useful, for it most certainly is; it helps narrow down the field. Examine the test information—lines per millimeter, percent contrast, MTF curves, and the like—but pay as much attention to the sometimes conflicting subjective impressions.</p>
<p><a title="camera photography" href="http://www.basiccameraphotography.com">film photography</a></p>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Tips with using camera autofocus</title>
		<link>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/2011/01/tips-with-using-camera-autofocus/</link>
		<comments>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/2011/01/tips-with-using-camera-autofocus/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 25 Jan 2011 22:52:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Snap and Learn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Photography Techniques]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/?p=171</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Autofocus systems are really useful tools but also highly advantageous. It allow you not to worry to much on the focusing while concentrate more on framing your shot. However, as we depend on the system, there is always the danger that the camera might focus on the wrong part of the scene. This will usually [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Autofocus systems are really useful tools but also highly advantageous. It allow you not to worry to much on the focusing while concentrate more on framing your shot. However, as we depend on the system, there is always the danger that the camera might focus on the wrong part of the scene. This will usually end up with the intended main subject of the picture to appear blurred whereas the background or some other items in the picture appeared to in sharp focus.</p>
<p>In order to overcome this, almost all the camera nowadays come with autofocus option. Simply by half press the shutter and the focus distance would be lock exactly on where you point at. Some camera also allow you to choose the focusing point. Choose the  right focusing point, aim at the intended subject, half press the  shuttle, and usually there will be a red color box turn green in the  viewfinder. Continue half pressing and start framing your shot. Once  framing is done, full press the shutter and it is done.</p>
<p><a title="Camera Zone Focusing" href="http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/controlling_image/zone_focusing.php" target="_self">find out about camera zone focusing</a></p>
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		<item>
		<title>How to get a good picture</title>
		<link>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/2011/01/how-to-get-a-good-picture/</link>
		<comments>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/2011/01/how-to-get-a-good-picture/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 Jan 2011 15:04:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Snap and Learn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[photography tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/?p=168</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[To be able to find good photographic subjects you must first start by trying to take a fresh look at the things around you. Sometimes, in order to find a good subject, you don&#8217;t really have to look far as you might just didn&#8217;t aware of the things around. You just need to pay extra [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>To be able to find good photographic subjects you must first start by trying to take a fresh look at the things around you. Sometimes, in order to find a good subject, you don&#8217;t really have to look far as you might just didn&#8217;t aware of the things around. You just need to pay extra attention to the color, shape, form, and light, all of which combine to make interesting images.</p>
<p>Some tips to finding good subject for photography.</p>
<ol>
<li>Start at home &#8211; You need not have to travel further than your own garden to find suitable subjects.</li>
<li>Take note of the color &#8211; Take a second look at objects that other people would take for granted. This simple image of a weathered gate with a lock and chain is effective because the bright yellow of the lock is a color that is complementary to the expanse of blue.</li>
<li>Practice with candid photography &#8211; Portraits make powerful and direct subjects that elicit immediate emotional responses.</li>
</ol>
<p><a title="Getting a good picture" href="http://www.basiccameraphotography.com" target="_self">Photography tips</a></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Tips about keeping the camera stable</title>
		<link>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/2010/12/tips-about-keeping-the-camera-stable/</link>
		<comments>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/2010/12/tips-about-keeping-the-camera-stable/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 28 Dec 2010 09:11:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Snap and Learn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[photography tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/?p=165</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[We all know that shaky hand will cause blurred picture. And blurred picture is something that we really don&#8217;t want. A good camera tripod will help a lot or a good camera with high shuttle speed, high ISO sensitivity and big aperture camera lenses. But what if all these are not available? There are still [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We all know that shaky hand will cause blurred picture. And blurred picture is something that we really don&#8217;t want. A good camera tripod will help a lot or a good camera with high shuttle speed, high ISO sensitivity and big aperture camera lenses. But what if all these are not available? There are still some easy tips to help getting the picture right.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Put you elbow on some hard surface, such as table &#8211; </strong>A stable horizontal surface, such as table or bench can provide a handy support that will help you keep your camera steady.</li>
<li><strong>Try to take the picture while lying down &#8211; </strong>Try some low viewpoint, one of the easiest available tool is the camera bag. Try taking photo with the camera lay on the camera bag, just make sure that the flaps and buckles do not obstruct the lens.</li>
<li><strong>Tuck in your elbow &#8211; </strong>If you have to take the photo standing up, make sure that the strap is around your neck all the time and try tuck in your elbow for extra stability.</li>
<li><strong>Holding the camera against a wall &#8211; </strong>Try hold the camera against some solid surface such a wall or a tree trunk and this can help to reduce camera shake.</li>
<li><strong>More accesories &#8211; </strong>Other than camera tripod, sometimes you would also need a release cable. This is because, even with a camera tripod, the moment we press on the shuttle button, it will also causes some camera shake, in this case, the cable release will play a vital role. If cable release is not available, try to set the self timer which would give us the same effect. Other than that, you can also try to get a monopod which is not so bulky and travel friendly or clamp if space is limited.</li>
</ul>
<p><a title="Tips for preventing camera shake" href="http://www.basiccameraphotography.com" target="_self">photography tips</a></p>
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		<title>What is camera shutter speeds</title>
		<link>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/2010/12/what-is-camera-shutter-speeds/</link>
		<comments>http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/2010/12/what-is-camera-shutter-speeds/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Dec 2010 08:49:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Snap and Learn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[anything about photography]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/blogs/?p=163</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Shutter is the switch that open and close when we are taking a picture. The amount of time the shutter is &#8220;open&#8221; means the amount of time the film or sensor is exposed. Thus, when trying to freeze a moving subjects, we need to select a fast shutter speed whereas to heighten a photograph&#8217;s sense [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Shutter is the switch that open and close when we are taking a picture. The amount of time the shutter is &#8220;open&#8221; means the amount of time the film or sensor is exposed. Thus, when trying to freeze a moving subjects, we need to select a fast shutter speed whereas to heighten a photograph&#8217;s sense of movement and drama, select slow shutter speeds that make moving subjects appear as dynamic, blurred images.</p>
<p>For example, when trying to capture a fast moving cyclist, a slow shutter of 1/8 second would not be able to capture any detail, you will need a fast shutter speed that is faster than 1/300 seconds, depending on the speed of the cyclist. A fast shutter speed would then freezes the action and keeps the sense of movement.</p>
<p>Try to capture the movement of water with fast shutter speed, and you will be able to see a picture with the movement of water freeze. However, if we use a slow shutter speed to capture the movement of water, the picture would have the water appeared to be blurred, sometimes showing a wonderful pictures. Try it out and understand more about camera shutter speed.</p>
<p><a title="Camera Shutter Speed" href="http://www.basiccameraphotography.com/camera_setting/camera_shuttlespeed.php" target="_self">Camera Shutter Speed</a></p>
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